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The Collector Bold, bright and fearless – the sartorial audacity of the 1960s and 1970s is brought to life through this trend. Individualism reigns, so take your pick from weird and wonderful patterns, vivid colours and detailed embroidery with nostalgic appeal. Miuccia Prada showcases isolated feathers across Prada and Miu Miu, while artwork by Robert McGinnis, the man behind the iconic Breakfast at Tiffany’s poster, adorns a series of dresses, tops and skirts by Prada. “The overall mood, spotted on the catwalks at Valentino, Dries van Noten, Miu Miu, Prada and Peter Pilotto, is eccentric and aristocratic,” says Shelly Corkery.

Found Florals It’s florals, but not as you know them. There’s an edginess to femininity this season, as designers “indulge in directional surface decorations for dresses as well as outerwear,” explains Shelly Corkery. From damasks to wild blooms, all types of florals are thrown together with artistic abandon, either on one piece or layered up for an air of hip insouciance. At the helm of the trend are the established players Gucci, Dries van Noten, Balenciaga and Dolce & Gabbana, celebrating flower power in all its forms. Dries van Noten leads the way, teaming oversized prints with bold geometrics, but it is Gucci’s “Alchemist’s Garden” – a kaleidoscopic riot of botanical pattern – that makes the statement of the season.

Soft Romance Feeling flirty? It’s all about soft romance right now. Think ethereal lace, sumptuous silk and intricate embroidery. An air of old-world enchantment prevailed on the runway – Chloé, Erdem, Zimmermann and Valentino took their style cues from history, from Zimmermann’s 1920s inspired dropped waists to Valentino’s artful fusion of Victorian and 1980s influences. While pastels are key to the look, expect to see the fashion set resplendent in velvet formalwear in a range of jewel-coloured hues. All shades of red make an appearance throughout the collections, particularly at Roksanda, Preen and Max Mara.

Femme Modern Coolly understated, Femme Modern is “luxury in its most simplified form,” explains Shelly Corkery. Comfort is king, with lounge and knitwear taking centre stage. Chloé and Peter Pilotto have encapsulated the trend with their modern interpretation of classic knits adorned with intricate embellishments. Can’t bring yourself to part with the cosy puffa jacket at the back of your wardrobe? Peter Pilotto’s quilted blanket coat in jewelled satin is a playful reinvention of an old favourite – also seen on the catwalk at the Dries van Noten show. Fans of androgyny will be pleased to hear Céline and The Row are also pushing sophisticated silhouettes and loose, oversized shapes this season.

Film Noir If you really want to stay on trend this season, you need to channel a screen starlet look. Monse and Jacquemus both pay homage to the seductive, ultra-feminine style of the Film Noir era in their recent collections. The classic silhouettes of the 1940s and 1950s are reimagined through clever construction and detailing. Central to the look is the jacket, says Shelly Corkery, “designed in sturdy fabrics, shoulders are extended to the waist to emphasise and define the female form.” For her second collection at Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri delved deep into the French fashion house’s archives to create show-stopping taffeta, velvet and tulle looks in rich blue and navy tones that bring the femme fatale into the 21st century.

Hero Tailoring Feminist slogans may have dominated the catwalk last year, but girl power takes a more subtle form this autumn as wearable tailoring makes its comeback. From Victoria Beckham to Balenciaga, strong silhouettes and outerwear in generous, oversized proportions are the order of the day, says Shelly Corkery. Prince of Wales check, tartans and brown corduroy got a chic upgrade at Stella McCartney, while wonder kid Simon Porte Jacquemus (whose global fan base includes Rihanna and Solange) has injected a touch of nostalgia to his collection, with masterful tailoring evoking the stylistic elegance of the 1940s and 1950s.

Artful Architecture Angular shapes and undulating layers – this trend is statement dressing at its finest. If you really want to nail the look, it’s all about structured ruffles and exaggerated shoulder details which “play on a 1980s vibe,” as Shelly Corkery says. Anthony Vaccarello leads the way with his second offering for Saint Laurent. The designer adds a seductive note with black and brown leathers, knee-high slouchy boots. Meanwhile, former architectural student Josep Font, creative director of Spanish label Delpozo, has put his former training to good use with a fresh twist on sculptural evening and cocktail wear.